It’s an interesting feeling, the desire to write a love letter to a place I’ve only truly known for a number of years I can count on one hand. Walking through the busy streets of Istanbul after having moved to Vancouver 16 years ago is an experience filled with many sensations, both familiar and not.
It’s orderly chaos — the instinctual kindness of strangers blended with reckless driving and excessive use of the car horn. It’s a place where, despite its many flaws, the warmth of its people never seems to fade.
Perhaps the most familiar element of them all is the comforting smell of simit sold on nearly every street corner. At a red cart on wheels, there’s often a rather passionate man yelling to “come and get ‘em!” with an attitude that seems far too enthusiastic for someone who’s been standing in the scorching hot sun all day. It feels in tune with the culture, because if there’s one thing Turkish people know best, it’s how to cook — and how to persuade others to eat. A love language.
Encrusted in golden brown sesame seeds, simit is the quintessential ring-shaped bread pastry for a Turkish breakfast or afternoon snack. With a crunchy crust and a soft, fluffy inside, they’re traditionally paired with some cheese, olives and most importantly, some hot çay (Turkish tea).
Whenever I go back to visit my hometown, I discover something new about my Turkish identity. I sometimes fear my connection to the culture will fade after spending so much time away, but as I walk around, I realize that all of the things I love about Istanbul have seeped into my family home in Vancouver. In our names, our language, our humour, the home decor, the music and most definitely the food. It’s in the little things, like when the aroma of freshly baked simit fills my home every now and then, that I’m reminded of the insignificance of distance and time when it comes to feeling a sense of belonging.
Recipe
Makes 10 servings.
- 3 ½ cups of flour
- 1 teaspoon of salt
- 1 tablespoon of instant yeast (fast action)
- 1 ¾ cups of lukewarm water
- ½ cup of molasses
- ¼ cup of lukewarm water
- 2 cups toasted sesame seeds
Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a little pool in the middle of the flour, then mix the instant yeast and warm water in the space in the middle. Give the yeast one minute to activate.
Little by little, start folding the flour from the sides into the centre, then knead the dough with your hands until it becomes smooth and soft (the dough will be quite sticky). After about five minutes of kneading, cover the dough with a cloth and set it aside to proof for one hour. It should nearly double in size.
While your dough is getting its well-deserved rest, prepare your station to add some special touches. Combine the molasses and water in a large, flat bowl and put the toasted sesame seeds in another. If you have white sesame seeds, gently toast them for a couple minutes on the stove until they get golden brown. Stir them occasionally to ensure they don’t burn — this is a crucial step!
Preheat the oven to 300°C.
After your dough has rested, cut it into 10 even sections. Split each section into two and roll them into long strands with your hands. Pinch the two strands together at the top and twist them on a flat surface to create a braid. Connect the ends to make a circle. This takes a bit of practice, so each one may look a little different from the next. Have fun with the shaping — it’s my favourite part.
Dip each simit into the molasses bowl (both sides) and then in the sesame seed bowl to fully coat them. You want as many seeds as you can get to stick on there! Place them on a parchment paper-lined baking tray and press them down gently. Ensure all sides of the simit are even in thickness.
Bake them for about 20 minutes. You’ll know they’re nearly done when you’ve lured your entire household into the kitchen with the heavenly smell.
Afiyet olsun!
Share this article
